Cirrus Pebble WatchApp for Weather Display Live

Posted January 17, 2015 by waynedgrant
Categories: Code Projects, Meteorology, Open Source, Pebble, Weather Station

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I don’t mind admitting that I am a bit obsessed about the weather. I am especially fastidious in keeping up with the current conditions where I live. This has manifested itself in several of my recent coding projects that display data from my weather station including my own web site, a web service, a PiFaceCAD based console and an android app widget.

I bought a Pebble smart watch last year on a whim and have found it useful for its notifications of texts, emails and phone calls (I keep my phone on silent so the Pebble’s vibration based notifications are especially handy). Given I have access to my weather station’s data on all of my other devices doing the same with the Pebble was a logical choice for a new project.

Previous weather projects I have written have directly fetched and processed Weather Display Live’s clientraw.txt file. For my Pebble watch application I wanted to make more use of my own web service. This would simplify the coding process as the service, unlike clientraw.txt, exposes weather data in a well-defined structure and many different measurement units. In addition PebbleJS toolkit has built-in support for making http calls to JSON-based web services.

I coded the application in Javascript using the CloudPebble website. For a browser based IDE CloudPebble is very feature rich with syntax highlighting, github integration and logging. It also has the ability to deploy directly to a pebble watch provided you have a paired smart phone for the watch on the same wireless network as the computer running CloudPebble.

The only other code that was required was a web page to expose configuration settings for the application. This currently has to be hosted on the web. In my application’s case this page allows the configuration of the web service URL and a choice of metric or imperial weather measurement units.

The finished application makes use of the Pebble’s menu UI. It populates a top-level menu of current weather data including temperature, surface pressure, humidity, rainfall and wind. Selecting any of these top-level menu items displays a sub-menu of more in-depth information for the particular measurement including daily high and low values.

As usual my code is open source and hosted on github. It can be found here: pebblejs-watchapp-cirrus.

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Cirrus Android Widget for Weather Display Live

Posted December 13, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Code Projects, Java, Meteorology, Open Source, Weather Station

Tags: , , , , ,

One of my recent projects was to develop an Android widget to display the values found in online WD Live clientraw.txt files. It accesses the same data as my other weather related code projects this year: a JSON Web Service for Weather Display Live and a PiFaceCAD Weather Display Console.

I’ve name the Widget “Cirrus” after the cloud genus. The widget supports 18 different weather data points (and displays the current trend for many of these) and 16 different measurement units. It also has colour coding for easy recognition of different temperature ranges (using the BBC Weather temperature colours) and UV index (using the US EPA UV Index colours).

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I use the widget to display the current conditions for both my own weather station and others when I travel. So far I have installed and run it successfully on a Samsung Note II (Android 4.4.2), Samsung Galaxy Express (Android 4.1.2) and a 2013 Nexus 7 (Android 5.0.1).

At this time I do not have any plans to publish the widget on the Google Play Store. I have, however, open sourced the code using the MIT License and made it available via GitHub here:

See the read me for installation and use instructions.


Weather Station Winter Report

Posted November 21, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Meteorology, Weather Station

Tags: , , ,

The onset of Meteorological Winter is a little over a week away here in New Jersey (it runs from 1st Dec to 1st March). Last year’s winter here represented a period of prolonged cold and quite sizeable snow fall. It was certainly more severe than anything my weather station setup experienced in the preceding years in Scotland (although note that the station was only installed there in August 2011 after the severe winters of 2009 – 2010 and 2010 – 2011).

This post relates my experiences with my weather station from last year’s winter (2013 – 2014) and is a record of what worked well and what did not work so well. I run a standard Oregon Scientific WMR200 setup and will describe how well each of the sensors stood up to the harsher than normal conditions. I have illustrated the post with pictures taken at the time and supplemented with various charts produced using my Meteo Sheeva setup.

Winter 2013 – 2014 in New Jersey

Last winter New Jersey, like many parts of the USA, was in the grip of a prolonged Polar Vortex. There were certainly colder places in the USA that winter. There were also places that got a lot more snow. Indeed, according to meteorological records, New Jersey has itself had much colder and more snowbound winters in its past. What made it unusual was how prolonged the cold was and, as a result, just how long the deep snow was able to persist.

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As I have already mentioned it was very cold. The coldest it got according to my instruments was -15.7°C on the morning of 7th January 2014. What was really extreme was that the temperature could remain entirely below freezing for days at a time. The chart below shows the number days per month from December 2013 to February 2014 when the temperature did not rise above 0°C. January was especially gruelling with 14 of 31 days spent entirely below zero.

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The following chart shows the minimum temperature for every day from the start of December 2013 through to the end of February 2014. Extended cold like this quickly becomes wearing on people and machines alike.

dec - feb min temperature

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Note the spike in minimum temperature on 22nd December 2013 (to 13.7°C). This is not a sensor anomaly and I remember that day well. Preceded by some rather cold days the temperature got up to 20.6°C. This made for shorts and t-shirt weather for one day in December. As we can see from the chart the warm weather did not last long and temperatures plummeted and stayed cold thereafter.

Then there was the wind chill. This dropped to a low of -21.3°C on the same morning as the lowest temperature was recorded. I suspect that the wind chill was worse than this in reality as my anemometer is not in the most exposed of locations. The graph below shows the daily minimum wind chill from late December 2013 (when the sensor was installed) through to the end of February 2014.

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Finally there was the snow. Up to 2 feet was present on the ground for weeks at a time. The problem was not that it snowed an incredible amount. Instead what did fall remained for weeks at a time because of the consistently low temperatures.

snow depth

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Weather Station Sensor Location

The siting of my weather station’s sensors has some bearing on my experiences last winter so I will describe that briefly here.

I am not entirely happy with my weather station setup at the moment. Unlike my previous setup in Scotland I am constrained in terms of space having no garden or roof to speak of. The anemometer/wind vane and rain gauge are installed fairly low down on the makeshift box and pole arrangement pictured below (a UV sensor is also pictured but this was not actually installed until mid-2014). The Temperature/Humidity sensor is better situated and can be found round the corner on another pole in a spot well sheltered from the sun.

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Before I turn to each sensor’s winter performance I will talk a little about batteries. Oregon’s various sensors are wireless and are therefore powered by AA or AAA batteries. Conventional wisdom in weather station circles goes that it is best to swap from alkaline over to lithium batteries when it gets cold as they perform better in such conditions. I stuck it out with normal alkaline batteries last winter and suffered no signal drop-outs from my sensors. Lithium based batteries are no doubt better for extremely cold conditions but they are an unnecessary expense for the kinds of conditions I saw last winter.

Temperature/Humidity Sensor

The WMR200 comes complete with a THGN801 temperature and humidity sensor. The sensor is a relatively small box installed within a plastic weather shield. Mine is mounted on a pole about a metre off the ground. During the winter the shield did its job well as it became heavily encrusted with ice and protected the sensor which kept reporting consistently with no signal drop-outs throughout the winter. The shield even sported a 30cm icicle at times as pictured below.

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Ice was a real hazard generally last winter. Indeed the accumulated ice managed to bow the previously vertical trees near the sensor to be almost horizontal under its weight.

winter weather

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The only let down with the THGN801 was a strange behavior that manifested whenever the air temperature dropped to -10°C. Whenever this occurred the humidity would continue to be reported by the sensor but would not vary until the temperature rose above -10°C at which point it would start to report the true value again.The following chart shows this behavior starting at just after midnight on the 7th of January and persisting until mid-morning on the 8th of January (where the blue plot goes flat).

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Basically the humidity reported by the THGN801 below -10°C will almost certainly be incorrect and as will the associated dew point. Various weather forum searches have informed me (for example, here) that this is not an individual sensor fault but an endemic problem with the THGN801 and other similar sensors . If I lived in an area with frequent -10°C cold I would not be relying on Oregon gear.

Anemometer / Wind Vane

The WGR800 is a combined anemometer and wind vane. Mine is mounted, less than ideally, on a relatively short pole. The sensor performed well with no signal drop-outs all winter. The only issue I had with it was with the wind vane component on top and I put this at least partly down to its low position. When heavy snow fell on it overnight it could become encrusted on the vane which froze and locked into a single fixed position. Pictured below is one occurrence of this (note the rain sensor is starting to disappear beneath the snow. More on this below).

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While frozen the wind vane reported a constant (and incorrect) wind direction until it defrosted sufficiently to move again. This wind vane would typically only be frozen for a few overnight hours at a time when there was heavy snowfall. One such instance is charted below when there was wind but a suspiciously constant South-Easterly wind.

wind vane frozen 25 jan

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Rain Gauge

The final outdoor sensor I had last winter was the PCR800 rain gauge. There is not much to say here as it was completely buried under deep snow for much of last winter as pictured below. Once it was buried I felt it was safer (for it and for me) to leave it there insulated under the snow until it was revealed in the thaw. Despite its imprisonment it reported (understandably zero rainfall) constantly with no signal drop-outs throughout the winter.

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Winter 2014 – 2015 in New Jersey

My setup remains the same as it did last winter apart from the addition of a UVN800 UV sensor. Customer reviews show this to be a particularly delicate sensor prone to permanent failure in colder conditions. Given that temperatures here are already falling frequently below zero and UV is already a distant summer memory I have already mothballed the sensor until spring comes around.

The rain sensor did fail the following May when it was hit by 11.5 cm/hr rain. As a result its innards got a bit wet and no amount of drying could get it to signal consistently again thereafter. I have since replaced it with a spare unit. The question is, did its icy incarceration shorten its time span? I will never know but if my replacement rain gauge starts to become entombed in the same way this winter I will fish it out and bring it inside. There is no point in risking it in conditions where there is no rain to report anyway.

With a week to go and temperatures already plummeting here I have prepared all of the deployed sensors with new batteries. All that remains now is to see what this winter will bring to my corner of New Jersey.

JSON Web Service for Weather Display Live

Posted October 26, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Code Projects, Meteorology, Open Source, Weather Station

Tags: , , , ,

I’ve been busy implementing a new website for my weather station over the last few weeks at Wayne’s Weather.

There are a number of new technologies being employed. I’ve ditched my bespoke (and ugly) HTML and instead use Bootstrap for a client responsive UI. Chart and image viewing is now more user-friendly thanks to Lightbox. I have also made extensive use of JQuery to pull in information from various sources and to provide a more dynamic experience.

The functionality of the site has also been extended. There are now more in-depth current readings supporting both metric and imperial measurements, forecasts and weather maps from for the local area have been integrated and I have added a weather webcam and a weather almanac. I intend to write posts to cover the wunderground and webcam build outs soon.

For now this post will concentrate on an unexpected off-shoot of my efforts: a Web Service that exposes Weather Display Live data.

Weather Display Live

Weather Display (and its equivalents such as MeteoHub) can generate clientraw.txt files containing a weather station’s readings and can upload them to a web server periodically and frequently via FTP (in some cases every minute). The primary purpose of this is to drive a Weather Display Live (WDL) dashboard:

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The WDL clientraw.txt format is well documented and I have previously used the HTTP addressable clientraw.txt to drive a custom Android widget and my PiFaceCAD Weather Display Console. The disappointing aspect is WDL itself. Don’t get me wrong it’s an excellent weather dashboard and I still have it available in my new website. The problem with it is that is Flash based which is not as widely supported as it used to be. It’s pretty much not an option for mobile device clients running IOS or Android, for example.

To counter this I wanted my new website to make far greater use of the information contained in the clientraw.txt files outside of WDL dashboard itself. My old weather website made use of PHP to grab weather readings from clientraw.txt and place them into web pages before serving them up to the client. This was an approach I wanted to move away from.

I’d just cut my teeth on using JSON formatted web services with my experience as a client to the Wunderground API. I liked the idea of having a page load its own data from the client side where it could conceivably be mix and match data from various services. I figured it wouldn’t be too difficult to create my own web services to expose WDL data and call them from my own web site.


I settled on using PHP for the implementation for a couple of reasons. Firstly because I’ve used it for server-side processing on-and-off for a few years and know if fairly well. Secondly because I intended to write a general solution which I could open source for others to use and PHP is ubiquitous in the hosting world.

The result was json-webservice-wdlive, a JSON formatted web service API.

The API exposes two URLs. The first URL returns current weather conditions including Temperature, Pressure, Rainfall, Wind, Humidity, Dew Point, Wind Chill, Humidex, Heat Index and UV. The second URL returns a weather almanac for Month-to-Date, Year-to-Date and All Time records. Both JSON and JSONP (enabled with the addition of a callback attribute to the URL) are supported.

Besides exposing the data in the default units found in clientraw the responses also contain many alternative units. For example, clientraw files store wind speeds in knots. The Web Service responses, on the other hand, respond with Bft, knots, km/h, mph, and m/s.


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Note that I only expose the data I need for my own purposes (i.e. what my weather station setup supports). However, it would be a simply matter to expand the service calls to add, say, solar measurements or extend the selection of almanac measurements. Anything else WDL clientraw.txt files provide can be exposed, if required, with minor code additions.

I have made the json-webservice-wdlive source code available as a GitHub project. Have a look in the project’s README for installation instructions. json-webservice-wdlive is also running live on my own weather website. You can try it at by clicking on the links below:

Refer to the GitHub project page for more details on the Web Service’s response fields including the different measurement units and number field formatting details.

I also make use of the service in three places on my own website: the Current Conditions, Weather Almanac (pictured below) and the Forecast page where I mix my service’s results with those from the Wunderground web service.


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If you have a WDL enabled website feel free to install json-webservice-wdlive to expose your weather data to others and/or to include your information in your own pages.

PiFaceCAD Weather Display Console Build Out

Posted July 19, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Code Projects, Meteorology, Open Source, Weather Station

Tags: , , , , ,

I bought a Raspberry Pi back when they were first released in February 2012. It was purchased with the intention of setting it up as data logger for my WMR88 weather station. I got it up and running for that purpose using wview. However, I soon found a better solution for my data logging requirements in the Meteo Sheeva.

The Pi then found its way into a box and remained there unpowered for over two years. I wanted to put it to good use but no ideas were forthcoming to utilise it. Then inspiration struck.

I had just completed an Android application widget that could poll the WD Live files hosted on a website and display the current weather conditions therein. I use it on my smart phone to see the current conditions at home. Could I use the same principle to create a custom weather display console? It seemed like a cool little project and would put the Pi to good use at last.

The first thing I needed was some kind of simple, dedicated display for the Pi. Trawling the web I found a few products on offer that did just that. Unfortunately they all required soldering which I’m just not brave enough to try. Then I discovered the PiFace Control and Display (PiFaceCAD).

The PiFaceCAD is a neat bit of kit. It attaches to a Pi via its GPIO ports and provides a small backlight 16×2 character screen, five buttons, a three position navigation switch and an IR receiver. All of these features are programmable via Python. I ordered it and the compatible Camden Boss case from MCM and they arrived a few days later.


The assembly was a little fiddly as the Camden Boss case is a very tight fit around the Pi and PiFaceCAD. I’ve illustrated the process in the pictures below.

The unboxed PiFaceCAD:


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The unboxed case with the included rubber feet. I prefer clear cases if I can get them as they are more interesting to look at than opaque cases:


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My Pi ( a Model B Rev 1) maneuvered into the bottom half of the case. It’s a tight fit to get it in place, especially the composite video port:


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The PiFaceCAD attached to the Pi via its GPIO pins. Getting the PiFaceCAD into the bottom half of the case is difficult as the five buttons have to fit into small cut outs. I was sure I was going to break something but fortunately I didn’t:


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The top of the case snapped into place. Again it’s tricky to fit it around the Pi’s USB and Ethernet ports:


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Finally the assembled unit powered up, with the PiFaceCAD software installed and running the supplied SysInfo demo program:


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Coding in Python

With the hardware up and running the next step was to code the weather display application itself. The PiFaceCAD provides a functional, easy to use Python API. The API exposes the ability to write to the display, control its backlight and add event handlers to the various buttons and the IR receiver.

I had never coded in Python before (Java has been my mainstay for last few years with the occasional foray into PHP and C#) but found it to be a straightforward language to pick up with a gentle learning curve and excellent documentation. The language’s dynamic typing took a little getting used to given my background but I started the exercise prepared to learn new ways of doing things (I did not want to “code Java in Python”). Coming from Java I really appreciated the lack of boilerplate code required by Python and just how little code it took to get things done without sacrificing readability. I expect to be doing a lot more coding in Python in the future.

Python’s library support is also excellent. I was pleased to find a JUnit like capability in the “unittest” Module and made use of decimal, urllib, threading and time modules in my solution (as well as creating a few modules of my own to handle, transform and format weather data).

What I did not do was code on the Pi itself. I instead coded the project on my Macbook using the excellent PyCharm Community Edition IDE from JetBrains. I periodically uploaded my unit tested solution to my Pi via FTP for integration testing. The code targets Python 3.2.3 which was the version available on my current version of Raspbian (released Jan 9th 2014).

pifacecad-wdlive on GitHub

The result of my endeavours was the pifacecad-wdlive application which I have hosted on GitHub. If you are interested in installing pifacecad-wdlive then head to the README for setup instructions. If you want to fork pifacecad-wdlive to add extra capabilities then all of the source code and unit tests are available in the GitHub project.

The current version of pifacecad-wdlive supports 16 different weather displays which are selectable using the PiFaceCAD’s navigation switch (this switch also controls the backlight) and 16 different measurement units toggled using the PiFaceCAD’s buttons. Better yet all of these functions can be controlled via a normal IR remote control (I have mine working via my XBox 360 remote). The application can be configured on the command-line to point at any WD Live enabled website and polls for updated weather conditions every 60 seconds.

Finishing Touches

If my Pi ever lost power I did not want to have to start pifacecad-wdlive manually every time the Pi restarted. To execute pifacecad-wdlive on startup I added the following line to the Pi’s /etc/rc.local file:

su - pi -c "python3 /home/pi/pifacecad-wdlive/" &

Those wanting to do the same will want to adapt these lines to match their particular pifacecad-wdlive installation and clientraw.txt URL.

A normal weather display unit such as the WMR88 or WMR200 can display weather anywhere it can receive mains power and wireless sensor data. My PiFaceCAD, on the other hand, was shackled to an Ethernet cable. I decided to make my setup a little more portable by adding a wireless adapter to the Pi. I picked up an Edimax Wifi USB from Amazon to accomplish this.

A wasted hour of following various (conflicting) manual instructions on the web ensued as I tried and failed to set the wireless adapter up on the Pi. I then stumbled on and installed wicd-curses and promptly got the Wifi working.

My one concern in using a Wifi USB adapter was that of power. I feared that having the Wifi USB adapter and the PiFaceCAD connected to the Pi at the same time may require me to use a powered USB hub. Fortunately my 0.7A Samsung phone charger was up to the job so a powered hub was not required.

Here is the finished build out complete with Wifi adapter and displaying pifacecad-wdlive’s summary weather display screen for my own weather station:

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I’m quite pleased with how the build out has turned out. While it would probably have cost around the same money to buy a new weather display console from Oregon creating this was a lot more fun and satisfying.

Accessing UK TV from the USA

Posted May 31, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Expat

Tags: , , ,

I have been living in the USA for nine months now. While I have settled comfortably one thing I have missed from back home in Scotland is UK Television. Specifically I have been missing UK-centric news and documentaries. There are currently two BBC channels available on US cable. However, compared to the UK-based BBC offering they’re light on decent content. Not having the likes of BBC News 24 , Horizon, Panorama, etc. available finally spurred me to start exploring options to access UK-based streaming and catch up services from the US.

In the course of my research I have read many ill-informed forum posts saying certain approaches to accessing UK content are not possible. This post details my experiences so others can see what is possible and not be put off by such incorrect information.

Accessing Geoblocked Content

The first thing that is required to access UK catchup services is the ability to trick the geoblocks that such services employ to restrict their content to the UK. I investigated various VPN providers before settling on OverPlay’s Smart DNS service. This is not a full-blown VPN service and the low price of $4.95/month reflects this. Instead it is a simpler offering which utilises OverPlay’s own DNS to get around geoblocks for select services automatically. Specifically it supports all of the UK catchup services: BBC iPlayer, 4oD, Demand 5 and ITV Player.

Setup is straight forward and requires only a change to your device’s DNS configuration to point at OverPlay’s DNS Servers. The Overplay website contains detailed setup instructions for common devices such as Windows and Mac computers. Alternatively you can simply change the DNS setup on your router to cut over all of your home based devices to Smart DNS in one fell swoop. Many devices do not support individual DNS settings (e.g. Roku boxes) so this was my preferred option.

I was concerned that using Overplay’s DNS would lead to a slow down of my Internet speed. However, speed tests show no degradation of my internet speed when using OverPlay’s DNS Servers. Streaming content from the UK via Smart DNS is also very fast and reliable even in HD.

Besides making UK catchup services available Smart DNS has the ability to switch your Netflix region on-the-fly. By making a menu selection on the Smart DNS website your Netflix region can be changed to any one of the 15 available regions. The change takes effect immediately although you will need to restart running instances of Netflix on devices for them to update to the new region. Switching Netflix region is useful because different countries can have very different content. For example, I am currently enjoying the US TV Series “The Shield” on Canadian Netflix. Surprisingly the show is not available on US or UK Netflix. Helpfully you can find out if certain content is available on a particular Netflix region by using the (currently beta) Moreflicks website.

There are other options available to access geoblocked UK content but I cannot comment on those. I have found OverPlay’s Smart DNS service to be very reliable with only one or two short outages while I have used it. Their support is also very responsive.

Whatever service you use to defeat geoblocks you will require devices to access the content. I have explored a few of the options available detailed my experiences below.

Option 1 – Laptop or Tablet

Initially I connected to BBC iPlayer, et al using a Macbook and the relevant catchup service’s website. This was okay for short periods of viewing but using a laptop to watch TV seems a little restricted when I have a large screen TV available. For longer viewing sessions I purchased an extra long HDMI cable and connected it to my Samsung TV to mirror the display. I also have an Apple TV which can be used to mirror my Macbook’s display wirelessly via Airplay. However, I find this approach can be a little laggy compared to the cable option.

The other option is to use a tablet and the relevant catchup service’s app. Beware that you will need a UK based App Store or Play Store account to access the iPlayer, 4oD, etc apps.

One advantage of using a laptop or tablet application to access catchup content is that it provides the option to stream live television and (for iPlayer at least) download programs for later viewing. The other options below do not provide this option and instead only cater for catchup TV.

Option 2 – Now TV Box

Accessing iPlayer, etc via a laptop works well but plugging in cables or setting up AirPlay every time I want to watch UK TV is not convenient. I therefore started looking into set-top box options that would be more integrated with my TV. Factory resetting my Apple TV back into the UK region was not an option as it does not support BBC iPlayer. I would need to buy a new set-top box of some kind. I heard that Sky had released their own little streaming box for their Now TV service that also supported the various free to air UK catch up services and decided to explore that as an option.

The Now TV box is very cheap at £10 but is only available in the UK. Fortunately I maintain a UK address and was able to order one using a UK credit card and could get family to forward it onto my address in the States. The only problem was that it shipped with a UK power adapter. This problem was easily solved as it turns out that the Now TV box is simply a rebadged Roku box. I was able to order a replacement US power adapter directly from Roku themselves. The cost of the adapter and postage to the States inflated the final price of the box but it still looked like a bargain.

When the Now TV box arrived it was easy to set up. Surprisingly the Now TV box came complete with a HDMI cable. Sky has obviously heavily subsidised the device to get it into as many households as easily possible. The Now TV box does not support Ethernet only wireless. To my surprise it also does not support dual band wireless only 2.4 GHz. When I discovered this during setup I had my concerns. The 2.4 GHz band is very congested where I live as it is a heavily populated area. In fact it is so slow that I operate all of my devices on the 5GHz band which is almost unpopulated.

I gave up on the mandatory sign up for Now TV via the device’s setup process as it insisted that I purchase a Now TV pass which I was not interested in. I instead linked the device with my existing Sky ID which I had from my time as a Sky subscriber in the UK and skipped this requirement.

Note that Now TV boxes do not allow the configuration of DNS so you will have to set up your Smart DNS or VPN centrally on your router to get it to work in the US.

All seemed well. I could access iPlayer, 4oD and Demand 5 directly on my television as if I was in the UK. The interface was a little slow but usable which is understandable given the low-cost of the device. However, upon accessing actual content the problems started.

Video playback was terrible with frequent buffering interrupting viewing. Worse still apps such as 4oD and Demand 5 are prone to crash out completely when buffering occurs (iPlayer tends to be more resilient in the face of a slow connection). As I suspected the 2.4GHz band was far too slow and congested to stream content reliably. I experimented with all of the available channels on the 2.4GHz band to no avail. Using a scanning app on my smart phone showed every channel was packed with competing WiFi networks.

At this point I gave up and put the Now TV box on eBay where it promptly sold. If you live in an area with uncongested 2.4GHz wireless and can source a Now TV box from the UK then I recommend it if you want to access catchup services on your TV without a computer. Otherwise steer clear and look at another option.

Option 3 – Samsung Smart Hub

When I moved to the States I bought a new TV. Like most new TVs it’s a “Smart TV” and comes complete with app support. Another bonus was my TV’s support for dual band wi-fi. After the failure of my Now TV experiment I looked into the possibility of resetting the firmware on my TV to access UK apps such as iPlayer. Expecting a complex, potentially device destroying process I was surprised to find that five button presses on my remote allowed me to switch the TV’s region to any country I wanted. Upon making the switch to the UK region all of the US-based apps disappeared to be replaced by iPlayer, 4oD, Demand 5 and itv player. In combination with my Smart DNS configured router I finally had access to catchup services without requiring a computer. Samsung’s Smart Hub interface used to access the catchup apps is a little clunky and slow but is convenient enough for everyday use.

This setup worked great until a couple of weeks ago. Suddenly all video playback via the TV for iPlayer and 4oD became scrambled although sound was still playing correctly. Playback via a laptop or tablet worked fine as did Netflix playback via Samsung’s app. I could only conclude Samsung has (perhaps temporarily) broken their UK catch up apps. While I expect the apps will be fixed at some point I decided not to wait and sought out yet another solution.

Option 4 – Roku Box

The Now TV solution had come close to working with only the 2.4GHz wireless limitation scuppering the solution for me. Given that a Now TV box is simply an old rebadged Roku 1 box I reasoned that I may have more success with an up-to-date Roku 2 or 3 box. I checked the specs and found that both models did indeed support dual band wireless and, in the UK, supported iPlayer, 4oD and Demand 5. I could pick up either model in Best Buy for $70 and $100 respectively and forum posts suggested that, with certain prerequisites, a US Roku box could be reset to the UK region.

The first thing to do was to set up a UK-based Roku account. This is necessary because the act of linking a Roku box to a UK account causes it to install the UK-based catchup applications. To do this successfully you will need to access the Roku sign-up site via a UK-based VPN. I used UK Free VPN for this purpose. You will know you have been successful in setting up a UK-based account if the account balance is listed on the Roku website in UK Pounds rather than dollars.

I plumped for the Roku 3 as it is much faster than the Roku 2 and I was tiring of the slow user interfaces I had found on the likes of the Now TV box and my Samsung TVs. It also has an Ethernet port for extra flexibility although I am using 5GHz wireless successfully. I thought that Roku not including an HDMI cable in the box was a little cheap and highlighted just what a bargain the Now TV box is. Setup was simple. Connecting to the Internet via my Smart DNS enabled Router (like Now TV the Roku box has no DNS settings available) and linking to my UK Roku account the box immediately installed the relevant UK-based catch up apps and everything just worked.

While the Roku solution was not the cheapest it has worked out the best. The box is fast and can be controlled by a smart phone or tablet. It also works reliably which is more than can said for some of the other options I tried. The only thing it can’t do is stream live TV as, like Now TV and Samsung Smart Hub, the various catchup apps do not support this feature. However, when I want to stream live TV there is alway the option of using a Macbook or tablet.


Whatever option you go for you will need a service to get around geo blocking. I recommend Over Play’s Smart DNS because its fast, reliable and cheap.

A laptop or tablet is a must for streaming live UK TV. For a more integrated experience a set-top box or Smart TV can be persuaded into the UK region as described above.

A Now TV box is alow cost option if you can source one from the UK, have uncongested 2.4GHz wireless and can put up with the slow interface.

A Smart TV is an even cheaper option if you have one already and can change its region. However, my experience in the UK and US is that TV manufacturers are terrible at supporting their applications and their interfaces tend to be slow.

My best experience was with the Roku 3 box because it has a fast interface and has a wide array of networking options.

UVN800 Wireless Remote Sensor Review

Posted April 13, 2014 by waynedgrant
Categories: Meteorology, Weather Station

Tags: , , , ,

Until recently I lived in Scotland where UV is hardly ever an issue given the hideous weather we tend to get there. However, I now live in New Jersey in the USA where the summers can be very hot and the risks of UV exposure are more of a concern for me. Given that I took my weather station with me when I relocated (which comprises of both the WMR88 and WMR200 base stations) it made sense to consider expanding its capability to record UV.

One of the advantages of Oregon Scientific’s range of wireless weather stations is the ability to add extra sensors. I have, for example, previously taken advantage of this by adding an additional temperature and humidity sensor in the form of a THGR810 unit.

Both of my base stations also support a UV sensor in the form of the UVN800. This sensor is not normally bundled with the WMR88 or WMR200 but I purchased one recently as an add-on. The unit normally retails for $59.99 but I was able to pick it up for $43.79 from Amazon (not including sales tax). Both the full and discounted prices are on par with what I would expect to pay for other additional sensors such as the THGR810 mentioned above. It arrived undamaged and well packaged in a relatively small box:

UVN800 boxed

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Upon unboxing I was presented with the UVN800 unit itself, a wall mount with two screws, a ground spike, AA batteries and instructions.

UVN800 unboxed

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This provided me with two different installation options. Either use the ground spike to insert the sensor in the ground or the wall mount and screws to attach it to a wall or pole. I chose the wall mount option which I attached to my existing sensor pole. However, I appreciate the flexibility of the ground spike option. The trick with the UVN800 is to orient it such that the UV sensor on top of it has a constant, uninterrupted view of the sky which I could more easily achieve with the pole mounting.

UVN800 mounted

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Installation of the UVN800 is fairly straight forward if a little more awkward than it could be due to some weird choices made by the unit’s designers. First of all accessing the battery compartment requires the removal of four small screws from the base of the unit to access the battery compartment. Why the compartment is not accessed by a sliding mechanism like most of Oregon’s sensors is a mystery.

Secondly the wall mount is screwed into place at the bottom of the unit obscuring the battery compartment and reset button. Given my pole mounted configuration changing batteries will be far more time-consuming than it should be. I will have to unscrew the wall mount from the pole, detach the sensor from the wall mount, remove the screws from the battery compartment. Only then can I change the batteries and will then have to reverse the procedure to reinstall the unit.

So far this is my only gripe with the UVN800 and it is not a deal breaker by any means. One the batteries were installed pairing it with my base stations was as simple as hitting the sensor’s reset button and initiating a search from each base station. They both started displaying UV Index readings straight away. On both the WMR88 and WMR200 this takes the form of a live UV Index display and a graph of the last 10 hours of values.

Having UV Index values displayed on my base stations was just the start, however. I publish weather data to my own website and wanted to add UV Index information to it. I use a Meteo Sheeva connected to my WMR200 as a data logger and to do uploads of weather readings and graphs to my website. As expected it was a snap to get it to start logging data from the UVN800. As an example here is one of several graphs I have configured on the Meteo Sheeva which display the last 7 days of maximum UV Index values:


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My Meteo Sheeva also uploads data in WD Live’s clientraw.txt format which includes UV Index readings. I have rearranged my existing WD Live console on my website to incorporate a UV Index bar:


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Returning to the UVN800 itself there is one more thing to note. The reviews on Amazon for the UVN800 indicate that many units permanently fail just after a year of operation. At the time of writing I have only been operating the sensor for a few days but will add a note to this review if and when it fails.

Should the sensor last at least a couple of years (as all my other sensors have already done) then I would not hesitate to recommend the UVN800 as a useful, easy to use addition to an existing Oregon Scientific wireless station.